Eddie Arana, Rick Thibodeau, & Chris Bakunas San Diego, Ca. March 2012

Eddie Arana, Rick Thibodeau, & Chris Bakunas San Diego, Ca. March 2012
Eddie Arana, Rick Thibodeau, & Chris Bakunas at Luche Libre Taco Shop in San Diego, March 2012

Wednesday, September 30, 2020

The Fatality Of Overthinking


There is a philosophy shared among surfers that states there is a fatality to overthinking the ride a wave is going to provide. 

See, it's all about going with whatever nature provides - not trying to guess if the wave is going to be strong enough to give you a long ride (which in the world of surfing would mean more than 30 seconds) or if the wave is going to turn into an ankle biter.

Thinking a ride through just isn't going to work. You can visualize yourself on your board, catching the wave, dropping in, but that's about it. Once you're in, you're in, just enjoy it.

That applies to about 90% of life.

Not to say I know a lot about life, or surfing, but it does seem to make sense.


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